Posts Tagged: Lofoten

Bouldering in Lofoten – the guidebook!

Omslag_collage

 

So, it may not have escaped anyone, but earlier this month the first ever guidebook to bouldering in Lofoten saw its release. The book – titled ”A comprehensive guide to Bouldering in Lofoten” – presents more than 700 problems in 24 different areas, from Svolvær in the east to Bunes in the west.
320 pages, with written descriptions and photo topos to all problems, combined with all the necessary maps, directions and logistics you need to get the most out of the bouldering here this guidebook will hopefully put Lofoten on the global bouldering map. Also, the book contains an adundance of inspiring photos that will hopefully wet your apetite for some arctic bouldering.

So far the response has been overwhelming and it’s been a pleasure to work on this project and finally see it come to life. Thanks again to everyone involved; advertisers, collaborators and friends!

Bouldering in Lofoten is available from well sorted outdoor shops – both in Lofoten and elsewhere – but it can also be ordered at lofotenbouldering.com. At lofotenbouldering.com you can also report new problems, for a future second edition of the book.

 

 

 

Discovering a new side of Lofoten

Having been to Lofoten many times, focus has always been on roped climbing, single or multipitch. Sometimes we’ve played around on the boulders below Presten or elsewhere, but without a pad there’s been nothing serious to it. Now, when living here and with two pads at the ready I’ve been able to discover a side of Lofoten I haven’t really seen before. There’s no doubt about it, some of the problems would be rated three stars anywhere in the world.
Apart from doing some bouldering on my own I have also had the time to capture some of the Lofoten bouldering with my camera. This is an ongoing project, what the end result will be remains to be seen. But why not share some of the images in the meantime?

A very nice boulder near Valberg.

A very nice boulder near Valberg.

 

Elisa Strand trying to reach the jug on a steep problem at Stem Bastensen.

Elisa Strand trying to reach the jug on a steep problem at Stem Bastensen.

 

Carl Granlund trying Monster, near the Stem Bastensen boulders, just along the E10.

Carl Granlund trying Monster, near the Stem Bastensen boulders, just along the E10.

 

Carl Granlund highballing it on the first ascent of Fear of Temptation, near Svolvær.

Carl Granlund highballing it on the first ascent of Fear of Temptation, near Svolvær.

 

Henrik Sundahl making quick work of an immacculate, slopey boulder at Stem Bastensen.

Henrik Sundahl making quick work of an immacculate, slopey boulder at Stem Bastensen.

 

A nice, easy crack at Børvågen, near Svolvær.

A nice, easy crack at Børvågen, near Svolvær.

Relocating to Lofoten

Bret Shandro enjoying some spring snow descending from Trollsadeln.

Bret Shandro enjoying some spring snow while descending from Trollsadeln.

Having been based in Stockholm for some 40+ years I thought it was time to try something new. Since early April I’m now residing in Lofoten in northern Norway. I’ve been here many times during the summer. The first visit was with my dad in 1981, hiking around the fishing villages of Kalle and Henningsvær. My climbing passion wasn’t born until ten years later, but maybe subconsiously it all began on that trip to Lofoten?

In 1994 I did my first climbing trip to Lofoten. Some things have changed since then. The free ”campsite” below Gandalfveggen is no longer the quiet place it was back then. Well, it is now, in the early spring, but in the summer it is usually very busy nowadays, and there are clear signs showing us that the presence of climbers is beginning to take its toll on the environment below Gandalfveggen. Some things are still the same though. The mountains are still just as beautiful, reflected as they are in the ocean at their feet. The rock is still of the same impeccable quality, but there are a lot more established routes to choose from nowadays.

I’ve also managed to sample some of the skiing here, although the past season hasn’t been the best according to the locals. Mind you, there might still be some interesting ski touring available out there. Now is the time for multiple activity days, with enough light to go climbing in the morning and then head for the hills for some ski touring in the evening.

Of course I’m not here on an extended vacation. I’m available for assignments both on and off the mountain, so please feel free to contact me if you have any ideas or if you need help realizing your visual communications projects.

Selfie on King Fisher, one of many high quality boulders in Lofoten.

Selfie while working King Fisher, one of many high quality boulder problems in Lofoten.